Blind Assessment

Round, mild, sweet, with slightly fermented fruit notes that with imagination read as a sort of chocolaty peach or cherry. Turns slightly astringent in the finish.

Notes

Purchased at A&P, whole bean in sealed 10-ounce foil bag with one-way valve; $6.38/pound. Apparently an effort by Kraft Foods to inject its venerable Maxwell House brand into the whole-bean specialty world. Visit www.maxwellhouse.com or call 800-432-6333 for more info.

Who Should Drink It

Lovers of sweet dessert wines perhaps. Mild ferment (the sugars in the coffee fruit begin to ferment before the removal of the fruit) is technically a taste defect, but many coffee drinkers enjoy mild, wine-like ferment tones when they are sweet and clean, as they are here. The problem with accidental virtues like a fortuitously sweet ferment is that it may not turn up in the next lot of the same coffee.

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