Blind Assessment

This well-known blend, which attracted high ratings in previous Coffee Review tastings, mildly disappointed in this incarnation (Willem 84, Ken 84). Aroma fared well enough. For Willem it was "elegant, complex[ly] floral," for Ken "sweet, rich, with papaya and perhaps mint." Both found the small cup imbalanced, however. Willem described it as "acidy [and] spicy," Ken as "heavily pungent with aromatic wood notes." This imbalance predictably softened in milk: "Much better with milk than without" Willem concluded, although Ken felt the presence in milk was substantial but "rather ponderous with a woody finish."

Notes

Torrefazione Italia is a distinguished and innovating espresso roaster with Italian roots founded in 1986 but now owned via a complicated set of transactions by Starbucks. Perugia is one of its medium- (by espresso standards) roasted blends. Visit www.titalia.com or call 800-827-2333 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Either Starbucks, the new owner of the Torrefazione brand, has already cheapened this blend, or we just happened to buy a partly stale or substandard bag for this tasting. Let's hope it's staling and not Starbucks. This blend's distinguished history and many admirers make it deserving of preservation.

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