Blind Assessment

Densely bitter; heavy rather than full. Some sweet, raisin-like fruit struggles to get out from under the bitter weight of the cup.

Notes

Sold roast and ground in a 10-ounce can; 40 cents per ounce. Café Bustelo, one of the most widely distributed of the many canned coffees designed for "el gusto Hispano," also long has functioned as a sort of poor man's (or poor student's) specialty coffee. Finely ground enough to pack into the humble little hour-glass-shaped Italian espresso makers called caffettiere, Bustelo makes a nice, stiff demitasse in the Cuban style. I downed many as a student. Unfortunately, put to the test on the cupping table against other drip-style coffees, Bustelo comes off as heavy and oppressive. Visit www.javacabana.com or call 1-800-990-9039 for more info.

Who Should Drink It

Try it as Cuban-style espresso: pack it into one of the little hour-glass-shaped espresso brewers Italians call caffettiere and after brewing pour the coffee into preheated demitasse cups about half-filled with white sugar, stirring as you pour.

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