Blind Assessment

Cinnamon, pumpkin, chocolate smeared on leather in the aroma. In the cup overripe, lush, half-rotting fruit and carnal melon tones eventually suggest chocolate, which sweetens and rounds in the long, surprisingly clean finish.

Notes

Kalossi is the older Dutch colonial name for the growing region the Indonesians now call Toraja, after the name of the colorful local tribal culture. Similar confusion prevails with the name of the huge, sprawling island -- previously Celebes, now Sulawesi -- of which the Toraja region occupies a part. By whatever name -- Celebes Kalossi, Sulawesi Toraja, Indonesian Kalossi -- the tribal coffee of this region is the most idiosyncratic of the world's origins, with peculiarities in fruit removal and drying contributing a variety of ambiguous flavor notes. The Roasterie is a leading, quality-oriented specialty roaster that emphasizes its commitment to "air roasting," a technology utilizing a column of hot air rather than the conventional turning drum to agitate the roasting beans. Visit www.theroasterie.com or call 800-376-0245 for more info.

Who Should Drink It

Lovers of peaty single-malt scotches, cheeses that have ripened a little too long, the more extreme of blue cheeses.

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