Blind Assessment

In the aroma delicately complex: berries, flowers, sweet lemon, honey. In the cup opulent: syrupy mouthfeel, sweet acidity, crisply powerful berry notes, continued hints of honey and flowers. Only a rich but simple finish prevents this coffee from rating in the high 90s.

Notes

Despite a confused national coffee leadership, Kenya continues to produce some of the world's most elegant and distinctive coffees. Peaberry is a kind of bean that results when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. Atomic Cafe is a coffee house on the North Shore of Massachusetts that began its in-house roasting program in 2005. Visit www.atomicafe.com or call 978-922-0042 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Until a minor letdown in the finish, a coffee almost ecstatic in its lavishness.

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